How Are Baseball Cards Graded

Sports Card Grading 101 Guide

So you’re interested in learning more about grading cards but aren’t sure where to begin? Our guide is here to assist you.

The Grading Companies

Interested in learning more about grading cards but don’t know where to begin? Look no further. To assist you, we have included a guide.

The Grading Scales

Beckett assigns grades to its cards on a scale from 1 to 10, with sub-grades in between (.5s). PSA grades cards on a flat 1-10 scale, while SGC grades cards on a scale out of 100, which they then utilize to provide a grade to the card ranging from one to ten. Cards are assessed according to the following criteria: centering, corners, edges, and surface texture. They assign a grade of 1-10 to each attribute, and then add those grades together to provide a final rating of 1-10 to the card. Anything with a BGS rating of 9 or more is worth book value or more, as a BGS 9 (also known as a “Mint 9”) is the state anticipated of the card when it is pulled from the pack.

This is the state in which the majority of collectors are interested.

Pristine 10s are extremely difficult to come by.

Putting Condition Into Context

The Company’s Brand This is the part that most folks are perplexed about. Expecting a good grade from some card companies is not only impractical, but it is also nearly impossible to achieve. A fantastic example of this is Derek Jeter’s rookie card from the 1993 SP set. Because of the card’s foil material, there were an absurd number of “out of the pack” defects. As a result, high-grade pieces fetch thousands of dollars, whereas mediocre pieces fetch much less. On the other hand, there are certain sets in which the majority of the cards come out of the pack in near-perfect condition, and these are called “perfect condition” sets.

If you want to have a better understanding of how to approach this, consider opening a deck of cards and imagining how the cards might fare over time (sleeving process, gentle bump to a corner or edges, moisture, etc.).

This does not indicate that older cards are less valuable; rather, it implies that less may be anticipated in terms of condition.

To do this, it is necessary to locate cards that have been carefully cared for and are in better shape than the usual.

What to Do When You Can’t See a Card in Person

When you can’t view the card in person, buying it online is the most difficult and risky option. If the scan of the card you desire to purchase appears to be concealing something or does not provide an exact or visible image, it’s time to close your eyes and start typing again.

To clarify any issues you are unsure about, simply ask the seller a series of questions. A few examples of questions are presented in the next section.

  1. I noted that all four corners are crisp
  2. I believe that Is it on the card itself or on the card’s case
  3. Are there any obvious flaws in the card’s construction?

Now You’re Ready To Practice “The Eye of Collector”

This is a really straightforward procedure. We now understand the five major qualities that are utilized to grade a card, according to Beckett Grading Services.

  1. Centering: The width of the border is what defines the centering of the image. In an ideal world, the border size should be the same on the left, right, top, and bottom of the page. Sometimes determining the centering will not be as straightforward as checking for borders that are evenly spaced. The bottom line is that the card should appear to be well-balanced overall. If a card looks to be lopsided, this indicates that the centering is incorrect. Corners: This is likely the most essential and examined of the grading qualities since it is the most visible. Other worries can be alleviated by using a card with four sharp corners, which is especially useful on older cards. Examine all four corners of the card by first looking at the front of the card and then at the back of the card. This is the most effective method of double-checking. In the case of a corner with faults on both sides, it is not your imagination playing tricks on you. Occasionally, the ink, foil, or other circumstances might give the appearance of a weak corner, so always check the back of your print before printing. If one or two corners are an ugly to look at, you’re most likely looking at a card that will grade below 8.5 points. Despite the fact that little corner flaws, such as barely visible white, can make the difference between a BGS 9 and a BGS 9.5, they can also result in no difference. The four corners of a card are also vital to consider. Some brands, particularly those with dark or black borders, are notoriously bad at preserving the edges of their cards. At the same time, less is expected of these, so set your expectations accordingly to be lower. This is something else that graders check for at the rear. The edges should be crisp, and the color should be consistent throughout. Edges with dings, dents, or slight discolorations are considered imperfect. In the same way that corners aren’t the end of the world, barely visible white isn’t the end of the world. Surface: The state of the cardboard as a whole is referred to as the surface. Scratches on the surface of glossy cards such as Bowman Chrome, as well as fading signatures, might be a problem when using these cards. Aside from that, cards manufactured with foil material are more prone to little bits of foil falling off and producing white spots on the surface of the card. When it comes to older cards, the most common problems are creases and moisture damage. Many cards from the 1980s include ink smearing and stamp marks, which occur as a result of the card being run through a printing press. Many times, a crease is difficult to detect at first glance since the picture on the card might effectively conceal it
  2. Autographs: The grade assigned to the autograph has absolutely nothing to do with the grade assigned to the card itself. If the ink isn’t smeared and the autograph isn’t faded, the autograph will usually receive a 10 out of 10. All signatures that are evaluated must be “out of pack” autographs (not hand-signed or in-person). It is relatively simple to “eye grade” a signature
  3. Nonetheless, it is not recommended.

Centredness: The breadth of the border is what is meant by centering. In an ideal world, the border size on the left, right, top, and bottom would be the same. Sometimes determining the centering will not be as straightforward as just checking for borders that are evenly spaced. Overall, the card should have a sense of balance to it. It is possible that the centering of a card is incorrect if it appears lopsided. Aspects such as corners and angles are arguably the most important and scrutinized of the grading characteristics.

  1. Then turn the card over and look at the back of it again.
  2. Performing a double-check is the most effective method.
  3. Occasionally, the ink, foil, or other factors can give the appearance of a weak corner, so always check the back of your print before proceeding.
  4. Despite the fact that minor corner imperfections, such as barely visible white, can make the difference between a BGS 9 and a BGS 9.5, they can also result in no change; for example, Additionally, the four edges of a card are significant.
  5. At the same time, less is expected from these, so set your expectations accordingly to be realistic.
  6. Color consistency and sharp edges are essential in this design.
  7. When it comes to corners, barely visible white isn’t necessarily bad news; in fact, it can be quite beneficial.
  8. It’s possible to get scratches on the surface of glossy cards like Bowman Chrome.
  9. Cards made with foil stock are also susceptible to small pieces of foil falling off and leaving white specks on the surface of the card.
  10. The ink smearing and stamp marks that occur when a card is run through a printing press are common on many 1980s greeting cards.
  11. Autographs: A card’s grade does not affect the grade assigned to its autograph because they are two completely different things.

If the ink isn’t smeared and the autograph isn’t faded, the autograph will usually receive a 10 out of 10 rating. To be eligible for grading, all autographs must be “out of pack” (not hand-signed or in-person). “Eye grading” an autograph is a simple process.

  • On eBay, you may find popular PSA sports card auctions. View popular BGS sports card auctions on eBay
  • View popular SGC sports card auctions on eBay
  • View popular BGS sports card auctions on eBay

Make sure to go through our related resources for more information on grading and grading systems.

Other Card Grading Articles

  • Choosing the Most Appropriate Company to Grade Your Sports Cards Guide to Card Grading in Its Completeness
  • Instructions on how to grade your own sports cards and pre-grade your cards

Everything You Need to Know About Grading Vintage Baseball Cards

When determining the worth of sports cards, the condition of the cards is critical. Many people who are trying to sell their cards are unsure of how to rate them, or, more significantly, how other people will evaluate them, which is understandable. It might be difficult to determine the condition of your cards, and thus, the worth of your collection. Collectors frequently rely on third-party graders, sometimes known as TPGs, to make a condition determination on their behalf. However, learning how to appraise condition for yourself is a valuable skill whether you’re selling or purchasing new material for your own collection.

When it comes to evaluating or grading cards, both modern and old cards are regarded similarly.

We’ve included descriptions and samples of the qualities of each grade, ranging from MINT to AUTHENTIC, in the sections below.

MINT or MT (PSA 9 or SGC 96):

A MINT card will be a virtually flawless card that is as clean and crisp as the day it was printed, and it will be worth its weight in gold. In addition, there will be no surface imperfections such as wrinkles, bends, and staining on any side (front or back). With a ratio of 55/45 or better all-around, the picture will be centered inside the borders, and the corners and edges will be crisp and clean, much like a new business card. Corners that are sharp and the center that is centered 55/45Sharp corners and well centered almost 50/50Sharp corners and well centered nearly 50/50Sharp corners and well centered nearly 50/50Sharp corners and well centered nearly 50/50Sharp corners and well centered nearly 50/50

Near Mint to Mint or NM/MT (PSA 8 or SGC 88):

A NM/MT card will look to the naked eye to be identical to a MINT card, but upon closer inspection, it may have somewhat less centering and a little touch of wear that may be apparent on a corner. NM/MT cards should be free of faults on the surface such as bends, creases, and stains on both the front and back of the card. All around, the centering ratio must be no worse than 60/40. Orientation and a little tilt Corner ticking and centering are very light. Tick in the corner Corner wear is really little.

Near Mint or NM (PSA 7 or SGC 84):

When you first look at an NM card, it will appear to be brand new. Although there may be modest fuzziness in the corners and small color or print flaws, the centering must still be 65/35 or better all around, upon closer inspection. Transfer of a light print Minor blemish on the corner Corner ticking as well as centering Minor wear to the corners Corner wear is minimal.

Excellent to Mint or EX/MT (PSA 6 or SGC 80):

An EX/MT card, which is a more frequent “higher” grade for vintage cards, may have slightly fuzzy edges, color or print flaws, a little skewed cut, or a slightly out-of-focus picture, among other characteristics.

The centering ratio must be at least 70/30 all around. Corner lift and minor corner wear are both present. Corner wear is minimal. Corner wear is minimal. Corner crimping in the reverse direction

Excellent or EX (PSA 5 or SGC 60):

This is a more frequent grade for older cards than the previous one. The corners may show the beginnings of rounding due to normal wear and tear. It is possible that the sheen of the surface may begin to diminish. Cards should still have a centering ratio of at least 75/25, if not better. a significant deviation from the center Corner wear and a small amount of crimping at the corner wear on the corners Back wrinkles that aren’t very noticeable

Very Good to Excellent or VG/EX (PSA 4 or SGC 50):

It is normal for the corners of a VG/EX card to exhibit signs of wear and mild creasing along the edge. The centering ratio must be at least 80/20. On the back of the card, there may be a faint wrinkle or a slight crease that is visible. Cards with more major print flaws, as well as cards with wax stains, will fall into the VG/EX category. Corner wear and a loss of surface sheen are two of the most common problems. Even wear on the corners Corner wear and the presence of a little foreign substance on the surfaceCorner wear and the absence of a shine on the surface Corner wear and a small amount of crimp

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Very Good or VG (PSA 3 or SGC 40):

Generally, cards in Very Good condition will have minor wear and the edges may be rounded rather than square. In most cases, cards with a significant wrinkle or crease will be graded VG regardless of their other features. Similarly, this is often the highest grade awarded to any card that has a stain on the surface. Wrinkle on the front wear on the corners Corner wear is severe. crease in the back

Good or GD (PSA 2 or SGC 30):

Unusual wear and tear on a GD card includes rounded corners, several folds, a very minor rip at the borders, and tape residue on the reverse, among other things. It is rare to find a crease that fractures the surface (either on the front or back) that will grade higher than GD. crease on the front Scratches on the front surface and heavy corner wear Back crease that is rather severe.

Poor or PR (PSA 1 or SGC 10):

There will be substantial difficulties with a PR card, such as ink or pencil marks on the card, loss of paper from creases or discoloration, high wear from pins and tacks, tape or minor tears to the card. If a card has tape on it, or a pin or tack hole in it, it may be graded in any of the categories above, but the fault will restrict it to a PR rating. a lot of creases and wear pronounced crease Pinhole Writing on the back side of cards might be off center, from left to right, from top to bottom, or both at the same time.

0 percent to the left and 100 percent to the right of the center Miscut from the very top to the very bottom Half-points are awarded.

Generally speaking, half grades indicate that the card possesses some of the features necessary for the following grade higher, but not enough to warrant a full grade award.

Because of the fault, the value is often at least two classes lower than it should be. For example, a PSA 8 (OC) would have a value that is equivalent to a PSA 6 (OC) (or lower). The following are examples of several sorts of qualifiers:

  • (One or more borders are much bigger than the opposing border
  • OC – off center.) The term ST refers to staining (which can be caused by chemicals such as wax, gum, water, or other things). Smears of ink, random areas of ink, “fish eyes,” and other printing flaws that occur during the manufacturing process are referred to as print defects (PD). The term “OUT OF FOCUS” refers to a picture that is out of focus due to registration or color application. MK – Marks – (pencil writing, ink stamps, or any other type of mark)
  • The abbreviation MC stands for Miscut (a section of the card is missing or a portion of another card shows on a normal-sized card). The term TR refers to a card that has been trimmed (the card may have been cut, either gently or severely, to make it smaller or to improve its aesthetic). Original but changed, mended, or otherwise improved
  • AUTH – Authentic (card is authentic but has been altered, repaired, or otherwise enhanced)

(One or more borders are much bigger than the opposing border; OC – off center) The term ST refers to staining (which can be caused by chemicals such as wax, gum, water, or other things); Smears of ink, random areas of ink, “fish eyes,” and other printing defects that occur during the manufacturing process are referred to as PDs. In this case, the image is out of focus (as a result of registration or color application). MK – Marks – (pencil writing, ink stamps, or any other type of mark-making).

Should I Get My Cards Graded by PSA

Some individuals believe that having a card graded boosts the worth of the card. The fact is that some cards sell for less money after they have been assessed, even after paying to have them rated. Some people who are trying to sell their baseball card collections have been informed that “graded baseball cards are worth more money than ungraded baseball cards.” This is a point that professional card grading firms such as PSA and SCGBeckett love to make since it serves as a reason for charging $5 to $15 to grade an ordinary baseball card!

  1. As the value of the card increases, so do the fees and charges associated with it.
  2. Some cards, it turns out, actually sell for less money on the secondary market after their owners have paid to have them graded!
  3. Everything is dependent on the card.
  4. Having cards properly graded is a costly endeavor that may even detract from the overall value of the card.
  5. Because professional graders evaluate tougher than we collectors did 20 years ago, certain graded cards sell for far more money than they would otherwise.
  6. The practice of sending a card to be graded that the owner believes is in NEAR MINT condition and having it come back scored EXCELLENT is fairly typical.

This is especially true if they could have sold it ungraded as “NEAR MINT” for 75% more money. The majority of people who send a collection of cards out to be evaluated for the first time are surprised by the low grades that they obtain in return.

Great Marketing

There are hundreds other cards grading lower and selling for a fraction of the price of that one card that rated a “10” and sold for thousands of dollars for that one card. PSA and SGC conduct creative advertisements in which they depict a $5 or $10 card that was graded a “10” and sold for hundreds of dollars, but the card was actually just $5 or $10. The advertisement is technically correct; nevertheless, the underlying reason for the high value of the card is that it is a fantastic card, not because it was graded by PSA.

  1. Stories like these are few and far between.
  2. It’s true that they’re both diamonds, after all.
  3. The great majority of the cards have a lower grade, and the values of the cards continue to decline from there.
  4. The professional grading industry is often seen to be fraudulent by many collectors.
  5. This particular process takes around a year and costs the owner thousands of dollars only for the card in question alone.
  6. Please keep in mind that we are completely “neutral” and unbiased when it comes to professionally graded baseball cards.
  7. In any case, we make money.
  8. Among the grading firms that I suggest are the PSA, SGC, and Beckett.

Many collectors prefer ungraded cards

Even if we purchase a card that has been properly graded, we nevertheless evaluate the card ourselves to ensure accuracy. For example, if PSA evaluated a card ExMt and we believe it should have been graded Nr/Mt, we will pay the price for the NrMt grade. If we agree with the grade, we may be required to pay a few dollars more (which is rarely more than the cost of grading!). The “under graded” cards are frequently taken out of the PSA case so that we may sell them for more money than they were originally worth.

  1. We may sell to both graded and non-graded card collectors due to the fact that we grade on par with everyone else.
  2. Most true collectors determine the condition of the card by inspecting it and comparing it to other cards in their collection.
  3. It has been discovered by Dean’s Cards that our graded cards sell at a slower rate than our ungraded cards.
  4. There have been instances when collectors have purchased a graded card from us and then requested that we remove the card from the case before sending it to them.
  5. Apart from that, the majority of folks want to really touch the card!
  6. It is true that you will earn a bit more money for a card that obtains a good grade, but that profit is swiftly offset by the value of your excellent cards that receive low scores.
  7. They are really beneficial when we acquire a pre-war collection of extremely valuable baseball cards.

It is occasionally worthwhile to spend the money to get a pre-war card validated (especially if it is worth thousands of dollars). As a result, the customer is certain that the card is genuine and real. I hope you find this material useful. Dean Hanley is the author of this piece.

Sport Card Grading For Beginners

It is possible that we will receive money or items from the companies featured in this post. Interested in learning about sport card grading, including the ins and outs of the process, why grading is essential, and how you may get your cards graded? If you’re new to card collecting (or if you’ve been collecting for a while), you’ve undoubtedly heard the term “card grade” thrown about a lot. Getting your cards graded is essential if you want to achieve the best possible price for your collection of collectible cards.

As a card, it is nothing spectacular — it is made of junk wax and is from the early 1990s, which means it is very common and not particularly expensive.

Not shabby for a typical playing card.

Ouch… You will learn the following things from this article:

  1. What exactly is card grading
  2. How to get your cards rated (and by whom)
  3. Where to send your cards for grading. When should you have your playing cards graded

Note: When it comes to card grading, there are a lot of sophisticated questions that may be asked, but we’ll stay away from them in this post. As a substitute, we’ll provide a beginner’s guide.

What is Sport Card Grading?

Sports card grading is the process by which an external business examines your cards and assigns them a score on a scale ranging from one to ten. This score determines the overall quality of a single card — the greater the number, the higher the overall quality of the card.

  1. Centering
  2. Corners
  3. Edges
  4. Surfaces
  5. Signatures (if any are required)

As soon as a card has been graded, it is assigned a serial number, is labeled with a unique number, and is placed in a protective case.

Why Do Sports Cards Get Graded?

There was a lot of altering of cards back in the day before grading businesses were established. People would cut and re-color cards to their liking. This was particularly prevalent during the 1970s and 1980s. Please allow me to illustrate this with an example. Take Roger to this location. * Actually, it was the 1970s, so let’s gift Roger a pair of terrible bell-bottom trousers to commemorate the occasion. Better. Guys like Roger were able to cut cards, touch up cards, re-color cards, and even produce counterfeit cards with their skills and knowledge.

When Roger would travel to card events to sell cards, he could charge a hefty premium for false cards since there was no way to determine whether the card was genuine or a forgery.

Basically, it was quite simple for card collectors to be duped — some would believe the phony cards were genuine and would spend a significant amount of money on them.

Consequently, as the popularity of playing cards increased, it became necessary to establish a criteria for what constituted a good card.

Graders examine items such as re-coloring, cut edges, and anything else that a fraudster may do to get a few extra bucks. Collectors can feel more secure when purchasing a vehicle since they will know that it is real and has not been changed in any manner.

Where to Get Sports Cards Graded

In addition to being one of the largest card grading firms in the world, PSA is also one of the most well-known. Beckett Grading Services (BGS) and PSA are considered the “big two” in the industry, and they are also the most well-known. Although. SGC are also reasonably well-liked. Having said that, if you’re trying to acquire graded cards or have your cards graded, the two most well-known businesses are BGS and PSA.

What Are The Differences?

To be completely honest, there isn’t much of a distinction between the two organizations. Centering, corners, edges, and surface are all given the same ratings by both of them. Each company’s grading system provides you with an accurate estimate of your card’s worth. All of the major corporations also provide a rating on a scale from 1 to 10, which is convenient. BSG, on the other hand, grades its scale with.5 grades, whereas PSA evaluates exclusively in whole numbers. Despite the fact that SGC uses a 1-100 scale, they utilize it to offer a 1-10 rating in any case.

The numbers don’t quite line up in the same way.

A 10 in BSG is classified as PRISTINE, and it is considered to be the holy grail of card collecting.

If your card receives a PSA 10 or a BSG 9.5, it is worth far more than the other two.

  • Pristine is pronounced as PRISTINE. Mint = MINT
  • Gem Mint = GEM-MT 9.5
  • Gem Mint = GEM-MT 9
  • NearMint/Mint + = NM-MT + 8.5
  • Near Mint/Mint = NM-MT 8
  • Near Mint + = NM + 7.5
  • Near Mint = NM 7
  • Excellent Mint + = EX-MT + 6.5
  • Excellent Mint = EX-MT 6
  • Excellent + = EX + 5.5
  • Excellent = EX 5
  • Very Good/Excellent + = VG-EX + 4.5
  • Very Good/Excellent =

As you can see, the two scales are very similar – with a few important variances.

Which Company Should I Send My Card To?

This is truly a question of personal preference. However, before making a decision, it is critical to consider the following three factors:

  1. A PSA 10 is typically valued more than a BSG 9.5
  2. A BSG 10 is worth significantly more than a PSA 10
  3. A BSG 10 is extremely difficult to obtain
  4. And a PSA 10 is extremely difficult to obtain.
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As a result, you must choose if it is worthwhile to place all of your eggs in one basket in the hopes of receiving a PRISTINE 10. In the event that your card makes the cut, it will be worth a lot of money; if it does not, it will most likely be worth less than if it were a PSA 10. I’m a PSA man, but there isn’t a right or wrong answer in this case — it all relies on you and your deck of cards.

How to Get Cards Graded

If you want to get your cards evaluated, you can do it in one of three ways:

  • Offer a direct contract to the grading firm
  • Make use of a source who will handle the delivery for you
  • At exhibitions, you may get your cards assessed in person.

We’ll go over each of the three options here.

Work Directly With the Company

Each of the three approaches will be discussed in detail.

Working with a Card Store/Distibution Company

The majority of the time, you’ll discover that local card stores in your city can take care of a lot of the legwork for you. They are unable to grade your cards, but they are capable of a great deal more. First and foremost, because card retailers grade thousands and thousands of cards every year, they have some bargaining leverage with the grading businesses. This implies that you will almost always receive a significantly lower pricing and a significantly shorter turnaround time. In some cases, card retailers will even perform a free pre-grading on your cards in order to determine which cards are worth grading and which ones aren’t.

This is really beneficial since you don’t want to waste your time and money on a grading firm that gives you a poor grade in exchange for your efforts. As a result, inquire with local card shops in your region to discover whether they provide grading services.

Getting Your Cards Graded in Person

The third and last major method of having your cards graded is to do it in person at various card events, as previously mentioned. Most of the larger card events will have personnel from major grading companies on hand who can complete the process relatively immediately. As a result, rather than having to wait months for your cards to be returned, you may obtain your rating the same day. Although there are certain disadvantages to having your cards assessed in person, they are as follows:

  1. When it comes to getting your cards graded, the third and last primary option is to do it in person at various card events. Greater card shows will have personnel from major grading companies on hand who can complete the process relatively immediately. This means that instead of waiting months for your cards, you may obtain your rating the same day they are returned to you! Even Nevertheless, there are several disadvantages to having your cards assessed in person. For example,

Personally, the only reason I’d recommend getting your cards assessed in person is if you want a rating immediately. Suppose you have a card of a player who is performing really well, but you believe their price has reached its pinnacle – it could be worthwhile to have it graded so that you can sell it at the card show.

How Much Does Sport Card Grading Cost?

When it comes to card grading, price may be confusing, as it is with most things. It all depends on what you want rated and how many cards you want graded. Most of the time, however, the amount you pay to have your cards graded will be determined by a few factors, which are as follows:

  1. How many cards you’ll be receiving a grade on
  2. Who is evaluating your cards, and how are they doing it? The time frame in which you would have your cards graded

In addition, PSA has a price system that is based on the value of your credit or debit card. In contrast to Beckett, where the value of the card has no bearing on the outcome, here the value of the card has no bearing on the outcome. The only difference between Beckett pricing and other companies is the return time. Some collectors choose Beckett because of their cost; as you can see, grading with PSA can be rather expensive if you have premium cards. In most cases, however, the resale price will more than make up for the initial investment (and then some).

After that, you’ll need to include any shipping expenses in your purchase totals (most of the time, you pay shipping both ways).

Should You Get Your Cards Graded?

So, now you understand why it’s vital to grade your cards, as well as how to go about doing so. Let’s take a look at the cards you should submit for grading. Obviously, the cards you choose to be evaluated are entirely a matter of personal choice. Some collectors choose to get virtually all of their cards graded so that they can determine the worth of each card. Others will not receive any grades. Most people will only get a tiny portion of their collection assessed. Consider the following points, which are all significant considerations.

A PSA 8 or PSA 9 graded card will most likely be worth the same amount as an ungraded card if you send it out for evaluation and it is returned to you.

Consequently, you will wind up paying a lot of money (and a lot of effort) to receive a card that is worth no more, and sometimes even less, than it was before you sent it out. Here are some fundamental tests you should perform on your cards to determine how well you believe they will grade:

  • Check the borders of your card and make sure that everything is printed in the center of the card
  • Centering Corners: The corners of the card are, without a doubt, the most essential part of the card. Ensure that all edges are crisp, and that all colors are consistent from front to back of the garment. Similarly, double-check all of the edges (both front and back) to ensure that they are clean and precise. Some companies do a poor job with their edges, and as a result, they come out of the box looking less than stellar. Surfaces: Are the scratches still there? Miss-prints? Is the color starting to fade? Are there folds or wrinkles on the paper? The surface of your card has a significant impact on the grade you’ll receive in return

As you can see, there is a great deal to think about. Furthermore, there is no guarantee that a brand-new card straight out of the box will receive a PSA 10. In addition, as we indicated above, some card stores will assist you in reviewing your cards before sending them out to be graded; this is an excellent method if you are just starting out.

Bonus Tip: Looking to Buy a Graded Card? Try This Trick to See if Your Card is Legit

When we first started this post, we stated how each graded deck will be assigned an ID number that you can use to track your progress. One great perk of purchasing graded cards is that you may double-check databases to ensure that your card is authentic. Take, for example, this RJ Barrett rookie card from the 1990s. It has a PSA 10 rating. When PSA grades your card, they apply a distinctive label to it and assign it a unique serial number. This number will be printed in the lower right-hand corner of your card in large letters.

All you have to do is key in the number and hit the “verify” button, and the information pertaining to that number will appear.

This is a simple and efficient method of ensuring that you do not become a victim of a fraud when purchasing on eBay or other online marketplaces.

Final Thoughts

When you first start collecting sports cards, it’s crucial to understand how to grade your cards. You will, however, most likely be able to get by with only learning the fundamentals discussed in this piece. You’ll learn more as you gain more expertise, and you’ll pick up other minor tips and techniques along the way.

Trading Card Grading

PSA accepts four different forms of card grading submissions, which are shown below.

Grading Prices

The cost per card for our most frequently utilized service tiers is shown below. For cards with a maximum declared value of $1,499. REGULAR$ 100 /cardFor cards with a maximum declared value of $1,499. EXPRESS $ 150 per credit card Cards having a maximum reported value of $2,499 are eligible. EXTREMELY EXPRESS For cards with a maximum reported value of $4,999, the fee is $300 per card. REHOLDER$ 25 /card REHOLDER Tallboy cards with a maximum reported value of $4,999 are eligible for this promotion.

See the full range of prices

CardAutograph Dual Grading Service

For our most frequently utilized service tiers, the cost per card is as follows : For cards having a maximum reported value of $1,499, the regular rate is $ 100 per card. EXPRESS Each card costs $150. The maximum declared value of $2,499 applies to cards having this feature. EXTREMELY EXTREMELY EXPRESSIVE a card with a maximum reported value of $4,999 will cost $ 300 a card. Card re-issuers will be charged $25 each. With a maximum indicated value of $49,999 for Standard Tallboy cards Do you have a card that is worth over $5,000?

The Benefits of PSA Grading

PSA has created a worldwide grading system for trading card collectors that is widely recognized and accepted.

Trading Card PSA Price Guide

Both collectors and dealers benefit from the PSA-graded card pricing guide, which has been produced by the company to provide greater stability in the marketplace.

Security

PSA surrounds each trading card in a tamper-evident, sonically sealed casing to prevent unauthorized access. These beautiful, durable plastic cases offer excellent protection against pressure and the majority of other types of harm. Once your cards have been encased, you may be confident that they will be protected from future wear and tear.

Set Registry

To assist card collectors, the PSA has established a Set Registry, and the possibilities for building unique and entertaining trading card sets are nearly limitless.

Value

PSA can assist you in getting the most out of your cards. Cards that have been validated and graded by PSA fetch astronomical sums at auction.

We’ve Got the Facts!

Obtaining information about your favorite PSA-graded trading cards has never been easier than it is today. With PSA CardFacts ®, you can find expert narratives, collecting articles, prices, populations, and checklists all in one convenient location.

How to Get Cards Graded by PSA 2021 (The Defentive Guide)

If you have any questions or concerns about our PSA card grading guide, please contact us at [email protected] or send a direct message to the Gold Card Auctions Facebook page. PSA, which is an abbreviation for Professional Sports Authenticator, is a well-known name in the world of sports card grading. Despite the controversies around the company’s escalating rates, it provides a broad range of important services, such as:

  • Single-card grading
  • Unopened-pack grading
  • Autograph authentication
  • Price evaluations
  • And other services are available.

For the sake of our investigation, we’re looking at how the PSA grades its playing cards. This method and its rewards will become more familiar to you as time goes on, and you will be better prepared to submit your own cards and packs to PSA for ratings and assessments. PSA Grading vs SGC Grading vs BGS Grading is a topic that has been discussed previously.

Is It Worth Getting Your Card Graded by PSA?

Generally speaking, if you feel you have a high-value card in your possession, it is worth your time and effort to submit the card for a PSA grade. The following benefits accrue from having the PSA seal of approval:

  • The ability to verify that your card is genuine and in excellent working order It increases the market value of your card. The ability to submit your card into the PSA Set Registry is provided. Authentication informs potential purchasers that your card is genuine. Ensures that your card’s quality is measured by an approved standard Makes it possible for your cards to compete with those of other vendors who have had similar cards graded by PSA. This membership gives you access to the PSA storage case, which is one of the most effective methods to store and display your cards.

Do some research on the card you are contemplating getting graded before you make a decision (read:Should You Get Your Cards Graded). If a card is valuable enough and in excellent enough condition, obtaining the PSA seal of approval may be well worth the expense of grading and certification. It’s Well Worth Your Time to Read Following that, the best Pokemon Booster Boxes are discussed. Must-Have Lamelo Ball Rookie Cards Among the Best Football Card Packs to Purchase

PSA Grading Cost

As of March 2021, the prices for PSA grading services have risen. Given the increase in tradingcard investment and popularity, as well as the sale of Collectors Universe, the sale of PSA’s parent business was a foregone conclusion. The rate for all types of PSA grading services has more than doubled or almost doubled in recent years. This was a significant development, particularly for individuals who rely on the PSA to grade vast sets of their cards.

Having saying that, the pricing remain as they are. When it comes to getting your card graded, the cost is determined by the Declared Value of your card. This is the amount of money you anticipate your card will be worth after it has been graded by the PSA. The following are the prices:

  • Cards valued at $499 or less are subject to a $20 per card submission fee, with a ten-card submission minimum (please note that this price is only available to PSA Collectors Club members)
  • Cards valued at $499 or less are subject to a $50 per card submission fee
  • Cards valued at $499 or less are subject to a $100 per card submission fee
  • $50 per card for cards priced at $499 or less (this is the pricing for non-collectors Club members)
  • $50 per card for cards valued at $500 or more
  • $50 per card for cards valued at $1,000 or more 100 dollars per card for cards with a value between $500 and $999
  • 150 dollars per card for cards with a value between $1,000 and $2,499
  • $300 dollars per card for cards with a value between $2,500 and $4,999
  • $600 dollars per card for cards with a value between $5,000 and $9,999
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Valuation of cards with a Declared Value of $10,000 or more qualify for PSA’s Premium grading choices, which are available only to members of the PSA. Based on the declared value of your card, these alternatives cost $1,000, $2,000, $3,000, $5,000, or $10,000, depending on the amount you choose.

How to Submit Your Card To PSA

Your initial step should be to go to PSAcard.com. You’ll see a green circular button with the word “Submit” written on it in the upper righthand corner of the webpage (it’s hard to miss). Your browser will take you to a Sign-In screen when you click on the button. To access PSA, you’ll need to sign up for an account if you don’t already have one. Immediately following your sign-in, you’ll be prompted to fill out the following information:

  • The sort of object you are sending (for example, a standard card, a giant card, packs, or other similar items)
  • The service you are asking (grade, autograph review, authenticity review, or reholder)
  • The date you are requesting the service
  • And The Declared Value of the card(s) you are submitting is the sum of the following: Each card that you are providing should be described in detail
  • Please provide shipping and billing information.

Having completed this step, you are now prepared to submit your card to the PSA for an official grade, or for any other service you want.

PSA Card Grading Locations

A PSA Dealer may assist you in preparing your card for grading and can also provide further assistance in person during the grading process. Please visit to locate a location that is convenient for you. Its headquarters are located at 10 Woodbridge Center Dr., Suite 701, Woodbridge, NJ 07095, and it employs around 100 people. The phone number for PSA Grading is 1-800-325-1121. It is possible to access the new PSA Grading web page by going to

Concepts to Understand Before Submitting Your Card

When submitting cards for grading, there are several common causes of misunderstanding, according to PSA. Specifically, two notions may be of interest to you in order to ensure that the grading process runs as smoothly as possible:

  1. Minimum Grade (explainer from PSA)
  2. Declared Value (explainer from PSA)
  3. Minimum Grade (explainer from PSA)

These principles, like so many other things in life, are simple enough to comprehend when given the correct instruction. PSA’s explainers should be of great assistance in this situation.

Steps to Take Before Sending Your Card In

If you are mailing in your card(s), PSA requests that you include two copies of your completed submission form with each card you send in. Print three copies of the document: two for inclusion in the bundle and one for your personal keeping. Use one of the ways for cleaning your cards that will not cause damage to them if you chose to do so. Because it necessitates extreme caution, it may not be worth your time if you are afraid that you may inadvertently do any damage to the card.

How to Package Your Card

In order to protect each card, PSA suggests that it be placed in a flexible card pouch before being placed in a harder, semi-rigid plastic sleeve (which it conveniently sells on its eStore). It expressly indicates that you should not utilize screw-down or snap casings since doing so would cause the time it takes for you to acquire a grade to be delayed further. Assemble your cards by stacking them (inside their plastic wrappers) on top of one another. Place a piece of cardboard at the bottom of the pile to protect it from damage.

  • The card at the top of the stack should match to the first item on your card submission form, as seen in the image below.
  • Place a second cardboard barrier on top of your stack to protect it.
  • Rubber bands may be used to hold the cards in place by wrapping them around the stack.
  • Place your deck of cards in a cardboard box with bubble wrap, packing popcorn, or other materials that will keep the cards from moving around.
  • Make sure to seal the box, add the shipping label, and also attach the Submission ID label that PSA will supply to the package.

After dropping off the box at your preferred shipper (using the shipping option you choose on the PSA website), you’ll be able to sit back and wait for your cards to be graded.

Who to Send Your Card to (PSA Grading Address)

PSA is based in the Southern California region. Please use the shipping address and method that correspond to the official PSA submission addresses provided below, even if it means supplying information that is not particular to you. TOP WAYNE GRETZKY ROOKIE CARDS ARE IN THIS YEAR’S TREND. The addresses and delivery methods shown on this page may change at any moment. International submissions may also necessitate the use of specialized delivery methods. When submitting your cards to PSA, make sure to include the most up-to-date and customized information possible.

How the Grading Process Generally Works / How Long It Takes

In most cases, the level of service that you choose will be determined by the worth of the cards that you submit. This will have an influence on the amount of time it takes to grade your card. PSA will send you an email to advise you that your card has been received. Following that, it will:

  1. You must enter your order into the company’s grading system database. Create unique order numbers for each of your business cards. Update your Orders page to include more information about your contributions, if needed. Notify you if there are any faults or problems with your order (if there are any problems with your order)
  2. Stick stickers to the back of each card, which will allow PSA (and you) to track your academic progress over time. Calculate an approximate delivery date for your purchase
  3. Investigate each of your cards to guarantee its accuracy, and then give you an email stating that each card has been investigated and found to be accurate
  4. Identify any mistakes or cards that are not eligible for grading and notify you of them
  5. Sort your cards according to their value
  6. Create an official PSA Lighthouse Label for each eligible card and attach it to the card. Place your card and Lighthouse Label in the PSA case that has been trademarked
  7. Check the correctness of your card and grade by going through it again. Confirm the shipping details for your return
  8. Please get your card returned to you.

There is no way to predict how long it will take to grade your card with any precision. There are a number of variables to consider. Once your card has been received by PSA, order updates will be the most reliable method of estimating when the grading process will be finished.

Criteria PSA Uses to Grade Your Card

Until defects are introduced into the game, your card is deemed perfect. The following are examples of flaws that might lower the grade of your card:

  • The card has been miscut
  • There is a flaw in the way your card has been produced
  • Soiled cards
  • Cards with frayed edges or corners
  • Cards with stains on them cards that have imperfections, which are sometimes called as markings
  • Out-of-focus images on greeting cards

Here are some of the key criteria that PSA utilizes to evaluate cards, including those that you may submit yourself.

How to get cards graded for free by PSA?

Contrary to common perception, PSA does not provide a free service for grading baseball cards. PSA Photograde, on the other hand, is a service that they provide. PSA Photogradeis a free tool that provides users with a visual tour of the PSAGrading Standards and how they relate to their cards, allowing them to obtain a better grasp of the standards.

PSA Grades Scale

PSA assigns grades to cards on a scale ranging from 1 to 10. Individual grades are as follows: 1 – Unsatisfactory (PR 1) 1.5 – Acceptable (FR 1.5) 2 – Very good (GOOD) 3 – Excellent in Every Way (VG 3) 4- Very Good-Excellent (out of 5) (VG-EX 4) 5 – Exceptional (EX 5) 6-Excellent-Mint condition (EX-MT 6) 7 – Almost Mint (NM 7) 8 – Near-Mint-Mint condition (NM-MT 8) Mint (number 9) (MINT 9) Gem Mint is at number 10 on the list (GEM-MT 10) It is reasonable to anticipate that the market value of your unique card will increase in proportion to your score.

Conclusion – You’reReady to Have Your Cards Graded

Regardless of whether or not you select PSA as your card grading service of choice, you now have all of the information you need to get the process underway.

5 Steps To Grading Baseball Cards For Profit Through PSA And SGC

Since been burnt by the hobby many years ago, I must say that I have been a very hesitant convert to baseball card collecting. It’s possible that it was the 1953 Satchel Paige that cost me a couple hundred bucks. An unknown prior owner used a black marker to mask edge deterioration on the lower black corner of the piece, thereby destroying its value. It is now almost useless. In the early days of baseball card grading, I submitted a 1982 Topps Cal Ripken “Traded” rookie card to PSA, a third-party grader that was independent of the manufacturer.

Oops.

I requested Jonathan Celona, an experienced and successful dealer forChampion Sports CardsCollectibles, to show me the processes of purchasing “raw” cards with upside potential with grading in certified, tamper-proof holders during this past summer’s massiveNational Sports Collectors Convention in Cleveland.

“Make money on the purchase, and cash in on the sell,” he counseled me at the time.

Celona ended up selling the Clemente for $4000 after turning down two bids of $3500 each.

After all, Mickey Mantle has been the most popular player since World War II, so I decided I couldn’t go wrong.

Topps’ collection was the last to be released, and it featured exquisite artwork from some of the country’s most talented animators.

I’d stick to a spending limit of no more than $500 each card, and stick to it.

The legends of baseball, such as Mickey Mantle, Roberto Clemente, Willie Mays, Ted Williams, and Hank Aaron, continue to grow in stature.

The value of Bryce Harper’s rookie card has plummeted from $350 to less than $100 over the course of the past year, thanks to the Nationals’ much-hyped prospect.

Then Celona offered something to break the ice: “Ask the dealers about their day.” Examine the market to determine which items are selling well and which ones are not.

As a result, it pays to be on the good side of the dealer.

3)Get a sense of what you’re getting into.

Subscription: $49.VintageCardPrices.com, which provides an invaluable “real-time” monthly online guide for just $12.99 each month, is a great value.

4)Show the card to the public.

In order to facilitate removal of the cards, they are now protected in rigid, separate plastic sleeves.

To prevent damage to the cards, always handle them with clean hands with utmost caution.

Celona pulled an LED pen light from his pocket and turned it on.

“You need to look at the corners and see whether they’ve been recolored,” Celona said.

Instead of using a ruler, he just requested another card from the same set so that he could compare the two cards side by side.

There is substantial controversy as to whether the leading grading business, PSA, fetches greater resale prices than its primary competitors, SGC (Sports Cards Guaranty) and BGS (British Guaranty Services), or whether the two companies are equivalent (Beckett Grading Services).

“You are purchasing the card, not the holder,” he explained.

After that, I decided to go it alone.

So, how did I fare in the end?

Both Topps were rated 3 (Very Good), which means they are worth around $600 on eBay.

Try to keep the centering as close to 50/50 as feasible.

However, I did not earn a tidy profit, as Celona did with his Clemente, but I did not suffer a financial loss either, and I had a great time. According to Celona, “we sell pieces of cardboard printed with cartoons for thousands of dollars.” ‘What a wonderful nation we live in.’

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